Tamales and trails: A culture-rich cycling tour through Albuquerque

Words by Courtney Knott | Photos by Tory Powers

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As a New Mexican who wandered away from The Land of Enchantment long before I started my descent into the depths of cycling, I was looking forward to exploring my native state on two wheels. And, as a cyclist? Extra excited to experience the hype that so many I’ve met over the years have shared.

Most notably known for the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, green chile, and its ever-growing position in the movie and TV production industry (Breaking Bad, Better Call Saul), Albuquerque is New Mexico’s most populous city. But, do not worry – the Duke City is quaint, easily navigable, and seemingly immune to the downfalls of large urban areas (traffic, and such).

That’s no surprise when you consider New Mexico ranks fifth in the US for land area, but 46th for population density. 

Located in the north-central part of the state and serviced by the Albuquerque International Sunport, the city is split north to south by the Rio Grande River, and framed on the east and west by the Sandia-Manzano mountain range and the West Mesa and Petroglyph National Monument, respectively. 

My riding partner and true New Mexican, Robbie Douangpanya, brought so much rich history to life as we rolled across the city searching for the best routes to ride, and restaurants to replenish in. If it is safe to assume the friendliness of a city’s people is directly correlated to the quality of life, then New Mexico must be at the top of both lists!

Just a short distance from our Old Town hotel is the Paseo del Bosque Trail. This 16-mile (26 km) paved multi-use trail (with no street intersections!) is a fun, flat route that provides easy access to the ABQ BioPark System (Zoo, Aquarium, Botanical Garden and Tingley Beach), but is also a connector to countless rides throughout the city. Its ease of access and use allowed us to park our four-wheels and rely on our two.

Bonus: Parallel to the paved path are miles and miles of flowy dirt trail and singletrack that will have you grinning from ear to ear (even on 25s and clinchers!)

Day 1 – Tramway, La Luz, The Fingers

We had our sights set on tackling some elevation in the foothills on the east side of town. After a delicious breakfast at Bike In Coffee at Old Town Farm – a bike-centric coffee hang nestled under a lush canopy of greenery (complete with burritos, a bike repair station and bathrooms) – we pedaled to and through Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, a charming town with farming roots displayed in the form of wineries and green chile plots dotting the roadside.

Once on Tramway Road (NM 556), the wide shoulder and striking view of the Sandias made the steady, gentle climb an enjoyable warm-up for what was to come.

Forest Rd 333 provides the first chance of a lil’ added spice with a nearly 1,000 ft (300 m) climb in 2 miles (3.2 km) to the La Luz trailhead!

Tack on a climb to La Cueva picnic ground and The Fingers (a route that winds up and down quiet, rolling neighborhood streets; definitely download to your head unit) and you’ve got yourself a proper climbing day! Although you may complete a full loop, I would recommend retracing your strokes for an out-and-back.

There was only one right option for lunch after a climbing day: Duran’s Central Pharmacy on historic Route 66. This iconic spot claims to serve ‘the best authentic New Mexican food on the planet’ and I challenge you to find anyone who disagrees.

Day 2 – Petroglyphs 

The West Mesa and Petroglyph National Monument serve as the western geologic border of the city, and that is where we were headed next. Once again, we jumped on the Paseo del Bosque Trail from our hotel and headed north to Alameda Open Space.

From here, you can work your way towards Boca Negra Canyon via bike trails up the West Mesa, float across the rolling terrain of the Unser Bike Lanes, and descend Atrisco Hill before a flat finish. The petroglyphs carved into the basalt are proof of the powerful presence of Native Americans long before European settlers arrived. This legacy, along with the influence of early Spanish and Mexican settlers, can be seen in every fabric of the city’s being, from architecture to cuisine.

We hit the Sawmill Market for lunch on the way back to our hotel. This artisanal food hall was a perfect place to go for three different appetites: those of two hungry cyclists and of our trusty (also hungry) photographer. But when it came to dessert, our appetites became one. Behold! Neko Neko.

Despite the overwhelming number of choices for this Japanese-style froyo, the young lady working helped us curate the most perfect combinations in the most positive customer service experience I’ve had in my life!

Day 3 – Sandia Crest

Definitely the most epic road climb in the state, and possibly in the entire southwest US? Sandia Crest! But first, the Downtown Growers’ Market!

In true local fashion, Robbie bee-lined straight for a butter croissant from Blue Door Pâtisserie (also located in Sawmill Market) and we came out the other side with … salsa! Six jars between the three of us. When in Rome …

Back to the riding. You have multiple options for start points, depending on how big you want to go. Gain 3,800 ft (1,160 m) in just under 13.5 miles (21.8 km) – starting at the bottom of Sandia Crest Road – or 5,880 ft (1,790 m) in 58 miles (93 km) – starting at Tramway and Central. Either way you will find yourself ascending through changing vegetation zones as you make your way to the sky.

The peak of Sandia lies at a whopping 10,640 ft (3,240 m) and provides breathtaking views of the city below and beyond. What makes for a painful ascent almost always guarantees an uber-fun descent, and this is no exception.

To bring this all full circle; my excitement to explore cycling in Albuquerque was anything but a let down, and I had high expectations! 10/10 New Mexicans (and non-New Mexicans) would recommend. And the Last Supper? Tamales the size of our heads, of course.

See you in ABQ!

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